For our winter holidays, we wanted to experience the magic of Japan. While spring and fall are the most popular seasons, we liked the fact that December to early January was a low season with comfortable cool weather (50 to ’60s) and little to no snow.

As first-timers, we no doubt wanted to hit the “Golden Route” (Kyoto and Tokyo) of Japan, mix it up with some day trips and immerse in local cultural activities. We started with the temples of Kyoto, immersed in local culture with matcha tea making and a calligraphy class in local “machiya” or townhome; got a history lesson in Hiroshima; enjoyed hot springs (“onsens”) and the iconic Mount Fuji in our day trip to Hakone and finally celebrated New Years in glittering Tokyo.

Trip Highlights

Duration - 10 Days | Kyoto - 5 Nights — Tokyo - 4 Nights

Places - Kyoto, Hiroshima, Tokyo, Hakone

Best for - First-time travelers to Japan who want to enjoy the low-season, winter holidays without the winter sports (ski. snowboarding ..sorry) and get a taste of the old (Kyoto) and modern (Tokyo) Japan.

Travel Pace - Our family of 3 is easygoing. We don’t over-pack our days. We like a nice mix of full-day activities, definitely freedom-free choice days, and stay at least 4+ nights in each of the two major cities to enjoy and absorb the sights and culture. For first-timers, I recommend at least a 10 day trip to Japan to really enjoy both the old and modern Japan.

Season - Winter - New Year (Hatsumode) holidays (Dec 25, 2019, to Jan 4, 2020)

Experiences - 2 Full Dayside trips (Hiroshima and Hakone/Mt Fuji) + 2 Tours/Classes (Matcha Tea Making and Calligraphy in Kyoto)

Trip Cost - Approximately $500/person/day. Included premier international airfare, JR Rail Pass, Transportation, Five Star hotels, food, experiences & activities

Itinerary Snapshot

Itinerary

Day 1 Travel to Kyoto

Arrive at NRT Airport, Shinkansen to Kyoto, Check-in and relax in the hotel

Evening

You will likely arrive at Narita International Airport (NRT) though some international flights go into Haneda International Airport (HND) which is closer to Tokyo City. Upon arrival, you will have several items to check off. From JR pass exchange to getting a bento box for your night ride! See our full post of your Arrival Checklist

Tip -  If arriving in NRT (after 4pm) and traveling to Kyoto the same evening, note last NRT Express to Tokyo Station is around 8pm. The JR East Travel folks were nice enough to let us move up in the line to make it just in time! 

How to get there:

Take the airport transfer from NRT  to Shinagawa (Narita Express) as our connection to Kyoto was from there! From Shinagawa to Kyoto (Shinkansen - Hikara train). Trains run every 30min

You will be tired and jet-lagged, so catch some ZZZzzz through the full 2+ hour bullet train ride!

Trip Total  time: 3:30 hrs (NRT airport to Kyoto Station)

Stay @ Kyoto

Kyoto has some fascinating options from design hotels, traditional “ryokans”, hip budget hostels to Airbnb, and other alternative accommodations. It was almost midnight when we checked-into Kyoto Yura M Gallery Hotel by Sofitel - an ultra-cool, Japanese modern designer hotel near Gion District and next to Sanjo Station. Easy access to trains and walking distance to all places of interest. At $250/night, there is so much to love here. Designer rooms, tatami seating, illy espresso pods, comfy pajamas, and stunning bathrooms and cozy lobby bar (1867). We got two rooms as part of the family offer for 3 (great deal from accorhotels.com). Other things we liked were complimentary bikes and umbrellas. Read my Tripadvisor review

How to get there: Take a taxi cab from Kyoto Station. About $40. Note: Cab drivers don’t speak much English - Our hotel had sent us the address and directions in Japanese which was a huge help. You can always use Google translate app :)

After a fabulous check-in, suggest you stay at the hotel and grab a bite, and crash in your wonderful room. Rest up as you have an exciting day ahead walking in Kyoto!

Tip of the day: Before you travel, have your hotel email you directions in Japanese for your taxi driver!

Day 2 Kyoto - Higashiyama & Gion District

Temple Run! Walking tour of temples and local Gion District

Recover from jetlag and start the day with a late breakfast at the hotel or head to Ogawa Coffee for delicious coffee & egg and toast! Today explore Eastern Kyoto. Old Kyoto culture, famous temples, cafes, and markets in the Higashiyama District. Start at Kiyomizu-Dera temple on top of the hill, then take the "preserved historic steps" of Ninansaka and Sannensaka, join a Tea Ceremony Class at Camilla Flowers and visit few more temples on the way to Gion. Wrap the day walking around and grabbing early dinner in the historic Gion district, famous for Geishas.  This whole area is easily covered by foot, but since it’s wintertime for us we will use a quick 10min train ride to get to our starting point.

Duration: Half Day (4-5 hours)

Activity Level: Low to Moderate walking (some steep streets and steps to temples)

Good To Know: Most temples close by 5 PM in winters. So start the day no later than 11 AM!

Cost: Some temples have fees of $5 to $10 / person. Trains are covered by your Suica or Icoca pass

How to get there:

Kyoto Yura Hotel —— 4 min walk ——Sanjo Station — 3min Train Keihan Line, Platform 3, 2 stops - Kiyomizu Gojo Station — 20 min walk — Kiyomizu Temple

Late Morning and Afternoon

Evening

Day 3 Kyoto - Old Southern Kyoto

Culture & Foodie Experience Old Southern Kyoto + Downtown Kyoto

You will still be a bit jet-lagged so grab a quick espresso and a bite at the hotel. Today, head to South Kyoto to visit the iconic shrines and most instagramable location in Kyoto - Fushimi-Inari Shrine. It is famous for thousands of vermillion "torii" gates (Senbon Torii) where each gate is a donation from a business or an individual. Explore the mountain trails and I suggest hiking to the halfway point of Yotsutsuji intersection and back to the shrine entrance (about 30-45min). Grab quick inexpensive early lunch (udon noodles, fried tofu, or sushi) from several restaurants and street vendors along the trail. Wrap up the day with the calligraphy class and drinks at the hotel lobby bar and dinner at the local Gion district or Pontocho alley.

Tip - If time permits do Sake tasting in this Fushimi District area after lunch. Some places have coffee, tea and cafes too. To get there take Keihan Main line train (11min) to Chushijima station and walk 5min to destination

Duration: 2-3 Hours (Morning to Afternoon) + Evening 1.5 Hrs Calligraphy class

Activity Level: Moderate walking/hiking (steps /climb at the shrines hiking trail)

Good To Know: Shrine is open all day but if you plan to hike to the summit you need 2-3 hours

Cost: Shrine Admission Free. Trains covered by you Suica or Icoca pass

How to get there:

Kyoto Yura Hotel —4 min walk— Sanjo Station -----10 min Train Keihan Line, Platform 4, 6 Stops --— Fushimi-Inari Station ---- 3 min walk ——Fushimi-Inari Shrine

Late Morning (say 11am ish!)

Afternoon

Evening

Day 4 Kyoto - Day trip to Hiroshima

Full Day in Hiroshima

Grab quick coffee or tea in the hotel (get food later at the train station) and get ready for a day trip to Hiroshima. Today you will see the remains of the atomic bomb (1945 WW II) and how the city rebuild itself. Cover the 3 main sites (Peace Park, Peace Memorial Museum & Atomic Dome) in Hiroshima. Also consider taking a short 45 min ferry or tram ride to Miyajima (optional & weather permitting). It is famous for the huge "torri gate" that appears to float in water at high tide. It is among the 3 top attractions in Japan. Conclude this trip at downtown Hiroshima. Eat at the famous hiroshima okonomiyaki at the southern end of Hondori and Aoii streets.

Tip: you will get to visit the other "torii gate" in Hakone/Lake Ashi later in this itinerary. We did not do Miyajima as it was closed for repairs in December.

Duration: 7- 8 hours (includes 4 hours roundtrip travel time)

Activity Level: 2 (Low to Moderate walking + train)

Good To Know: Museum, Memorial Parks close  5PM in Winter. Also Dec 30th, 31st, they are closed. (Hence we went on Dec 29th!

Cost: Fees $2 to $5. Train and Miyajima ferry - covered by JR Pass. Local tram use Suica or Icoca Pass

How to get there (JR pass covers it!)

Kyoto Yura Hotel —— 4 min walk ----- Sanjo Station — 16 min --- Kyoto Station ----- Shinkansen (Kodama) 8:52am 14min —-- Shin-Osaka ----- Shinkansen (Sakura) 1Hr 29min --—- Hiroshima Station —- Street car 1 or Bus # 6 —- Atomic Bomb Dome (starting point)

Late Morning/Afternoon

Evening

Day 5 Kyoto - Arashiyama

Half Day Arashiyama and Rest of Day Freedom Free Choice!

This is the last night in Kyoto. Start the day with a morning temple and Bamboo forest stroll In Arashiyama. Get some hot tea and breakfast. Then head North from the groves to experience the peace and quiet of the mountain side Jojakkoji Temple.

Head back to the hotel and enjoy the afternoon - its freedom free choice - rest of the day! It is a must have after busy 4 days! Wrap up last day evening in Kyoto with family dinner and a night cap (adults only) in Gion District!

Tip - Schedule luggage delivery from your hotel to Tokyo (if needed). With our JR pass green class, there is ample room behind the seats for 2 large suitcases.

Duration: 2-3 Hours (Morning /Early Afternoon)

Activity Level: Moderate walking

Good To Know: Temple open 9AM to 5PM (4:30PM last entry). Sagano Scenic train runs till Dec 29th (9 to 4). So if you must do this then you will have to flip some of the days in this itinerary.

Cost: Temple entrance $5. Sagano scenic train is $6 / person.

How to get there:

Kyoto Yura Hotel — 4 min walk— Sanjo Station -----12 min Train Tozai Line, Platform 1, 12 Stops --— Usumasa Tenjingwa Station ---- 4 min walk —— Randen-Tenjingawa Station —- 14 min Rendan (local) —- Arashiyama Station —- 10 min walk —- Arashiyama Bamboo Forest

Morning

Afternoon

Evening

Day 6 Tokyo - Travel Kyoto to Tokyo (Shinjuku)

Celebrate New Years Eve in Tokyo

Morning

Today is travel day. Check out by 9:00am so that you can get half a day of sight seeing in Tokyo and celebrate New Years Eve in glittering Tokyo!. The Kyoto Yura M Gallery hotel front desk is super nice and efficient. Take either an uber ride or local taxi (front desk helped us) to Kyoto Station (15min).

Take the Shinkansen (Hikari) 516 @ 10:32am (for JR Pass this is the only option) from Kyoto Station to Shinjuku Station (we were staying in that area). There are 2 quick stops on this train route. If you miss this you can take the next Shinkansen (11:32am). Total Trip time 3hrs

Tip  - You can take a later train since most hotels in Tokyo don’t allow check in till 3PM. But remember, it's December 31st, and it gets cold and dark early in the evening and most shops and restaurants close by 6PM on New Years eve!

Afternoon

Evening

Day 7 Tokyo - “Hatsumode” in Asakusa + Akhibara

Celebrate “Hatsumode” (New Years Day) in Asakusa + Akhibara (Electronic City)

Start late morning and follow the Japanese New Year’s day tradition of “Hatsumode”, which translates to first (“hatsu”) visit to a shrine or temple (“mode”) and pray for good luck in the New Year!. Grab some coffee and light breakfast at Shinjuku Station and head to Senso-ji Buddhist Temple in the traditional East Tokyo district of Asakusa. Experience Nakemesi Dori, a traditional temple street shops selling everything from souvenirs to tasty bites. This street leads up to the temple.

Note: If open, you can walk around the old neighborhood shops of Dempoin Street. Spend the afternoon in Akhibara (open on New Years day!), the famous electronic city - video gaming haven (Sega Arcade must visit) & center of Otaku culture (anime, manga), game cafes and arcades to collectibles.

After Akhibara, do a quick stop and walk in Ginza area, as we had to change trains here before heading back. It is a popular and trendy shopping district . Note: We come back on day 9, as most shops are closed on January 1st.

Duration: Half Day

Activity Level: Moderate walking

Good To Know: Senso-ji temple is extremely popular and crowed on New Years day! There are lines to get in..so be patient! Also remember, many shops and stores are closed on New years day. Thats why we picked Asakusa and Akhibara.

How to get there:

Keio Plaza Hotel — 7 min walk— Shinjuku Station -----10 min Train JR Chou Line --— Kanda Station (T/R to Ginza line) 10 min —Asakusa Station

Late Morning

Afternoon

Evening

Day 8 Tokyo - Day Trip to Hakone

Full-Day in Hakone + “Onsens” (Hot Springs)

Today, make a day trip to the beautiful Hakone area, famous for hot springs (Onsen's) and close-up views of Mt Fuji (Winter is the best time).  Take the beautiful Limited Express Romance Car and arrive at Hakone-Yumoto. Since its winter and transport options are limited, skip the Hakone Loop and take a bus ride to the shores of Lake Ashi. Enjoy the breathtaking views of Mt Fuji. Stroll for along the shores leading up to Hakone Shrine. Before heading there you can choose to grab lunch at a nearby bakery. Then catch a bus and head back to the final stop - Bath in the hot springs of the famous Tenzan Onsen in Hakone-Yomoto.

Tip - Take the Super Hakone, Limited Express Romance Car Train, its worth the extra money even if you have a JR pass. It's beautiful and saves you 30 min, which is helpful in a day trip to Hakone.

Duration: Full Day (Start around 8:30 AM)

Activity Level: 2 (Low to Moderate walking + train)

Good To Know: 1. If Tozan Train not operational or you don’t want to take the cable car due to bad weather, then use this route. Winter days are very short anyway. 2. Pack 2 towels (small+large) from the hotel for hot springs bath

Cost: Limited Express Romance Car (Shinjuku to Hakone-Moto) $25/pp each way. Hakone local transport uses Suica or Icoca Pass or Hakone. Tenzan Onsen - about $13-15 /pp.

How to get there:

Keio Plaza Hotel — 7 min walk— Shinjuku Station -----Super Hakone 90min--— Hakone-Yumoto— Bus H or K 45min —Moto-Hakone

Morning

Afternoon

Evening

Day 9 Tokyo - Western Tokyo (Harajuku, Ginza)

Full-Day Experience of Youth Culture and Fashion in Western Tokyo

Today explore the trendy center of teenage fashion and shopping in Harajuku (Takeshita Dori Street - make sure to hit the back streets) and high fashion at Ginza. Start the day with the famous Meiji Shrine in the middle of the bustling city.  These three areas are along the JR Yamanote line and easily accessible by foot and quick subway rides. 

Duration: 6-8 hrs (or adjust to pace)

Activity Level: 2 (Low to Moderate walking + subway)

Good to know: Meiji Shrine and some parts of Harajuku are open on New Year’s day too!

Cost: Only for Shopping!

How to get there:

Keio Plaza Hotel  ------walk 7min----- Shinjuku Station -------- Train JR Yamanote Line (inner loop for Osaki), 4 min -------- Harajuku Station

Tip -  Schedule Luggage Delivery to NRT (Narita Airport) If not taking Uber/taxi; 2. Reserve seats on NRT express 

Late Morning

Afternoon

As you wrap up Takeshita Dori Street walk…head to close by Laforet Harajuku to grab lunch. It has got several choices (like a small food court). You can also choose from delicious street food options if you walk about 5 min on Meiji-Jingumae Street, heading towards Harajuku Station.

Alternate Option: Head to Cat Street (5 min from here). Hip, upmarket fashion street, and cafes. Stop at Roastery by Nozy to get a cappuccino + soft serve ice cream. You can choose to explore upscale Ometsando Shopping district or head to Ginza like we did.

Evening

Day 10 Tokyo - Depart to NRT. “Sayonara” (Goodbye) Japan!

Goodbye Japan! The flight was until 5 PM. However, suggest Check out by 11 AM (most hotels can extend max to 12 or 1 PM). Get breakfast at Shinjuku Station. Eat @ Dean and Deluca. Once at the airport, grab some lunch, enjoy final sake tasting and sink into your comfortable United Premier Class seats for a 12-hour trip back to San Francisco.

Before you leave, quick checklist.

• Confirm baggage delivery to NRT is on schedule (if scheduled) and pick from a delivery counter at the respective terminal

• NRT express seats reserved

• Drop Pocket Wi-Fi In any mailbox in the pre-paid envelope provided

How to get there

Train - Narita Express (Shinjuku to NRT)at 12:40 or 1:10 using JR pass.

Train Trip Duration: 1hr 19min

Sayonara!

Before You Go

1. For this itinerary, I put together a brief guide to help you plan. See my Japan Guide.

2. See my Before You Go Checklist - packing list, tech, gear, visa, passport, wi-fi hotspot & more.. to make a hassle-free trip.

3. If you are traveling to several cities, get a Japan Rail (JR) Pass and see why it’s worth it!

4. Arrival into Japan can be overwhelming and disruptions happen in a 10-day winter trip. See my Arrival and Departure Check List for hassle-free arrival and departures.

5. For booking hotel/ ryokan/other accommodations in Kyoto and Tokyo, with flexible cancellation and no upfront payment consider Booking.com and Accorhotels.com (we got to use our points for instant cash discounts!)

Map It!

Recommended Additions

Here are some helpful alternatives to add /swap in this itinerary and to accommodate for changes due to disruptions weather, etc. It happens!

1. Kyoto - Tea Ceremony at Jotokuji Temple (book it on Tripadvisor/Viator)

2. Kyoto - Sake Tasting - Add on to you Day 2 when in the Fushimi District area after lunch. Some have coffee, tea, and cafes too. To get there take the Keihan Mainline train (11min) to Chushijima station and walk 5min to the destination

3. Kyoto - Kuruma-Dera mountain temple, hiking, and onsen in Kuruma (North Kyoto) - This is a mystical mountain Buddhist temple in North Kyoto. Visit the town and temple, hike to the Kifune shrine, and enjoy the beautiful small town. Head back and soak in an onsen close to Kurama town. Also has the closest indoor/outdoor hot spring (Onsen). Its 30min from Sanjo Station to Kuruma Station and then a few minutes walk to the temple

4. Kyoto - Sagano scenic train - Runs till Dec 29th, 9 to 4 PM, 620yen, 25 min ride, walk straight after Bamboo Groves (Tottokyo Arashiyama station). Torokko Kameoka Station, the terminal station of the sightseeing train, is a five-minute walk from Umahori Station on the JR Sagano Line from where you can take a train back to Arashiyama (7 minutes, 200 yen) or Kyoto (25-30 minutes, 320 yen).

5. Tokyo - Mount Takao - Side day trip from Tokyo. Stunning Mountain temple, famous Monkey Park, great views of Mt Fuji, hot springs, trails, and very popular later November. In December it is less crowded. A good option for New Years Day!

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Plan Your Trip

Take this itinerary as is or if you like to make some tweaks you can cherry-pick from this itinerary to create a 3, 5, or 7-day trip as well. If you have questions about planning your trip, leave us a comment below.

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